Off to move mountains…it moved me
I left for Aconcagua on Jan. 13 with the head park ranger of Aconcagua. On January 15 we arrived at Plaza de Mulas base camp (14,000 ft) and we stayed there for 4 days in order to acclimatize. It was quite an amazing time in which I talked to many people who participated in the rescue efforts of Fede and the Italians (more than 60 in total participated in some form, whether by melting snow or trying to save Fede's life). All were very moved and affected by the loss of Fede's life and I think my presence was a positive one, a reminder that something positive can come from a tragedy. We talked a lot and discussed ideas for the future and everyone learned how to use the equipment. Many, both locals and foreigners expressed interests to support rescue efforts. In addition, National Geographic was doing a documentary on Aconcagua and its search and rescue system. They interviewed me; hopefully this will also generate international interest, we shall see...
In four days time, there were four separate rescue efforts. In each one, the equipment that the foundation donated was used.
On January 19 we installed the first rescue cache at Nido de Condores (17,700 ft). That night, a Czech climber suffered from pulmonary edema and we used the oxygen from the cache.
On January 20 we left at 7a.m. from Nido de Condores to Independencia (21,000ft.) Another group went to La Canaleta (22,000ft). After we installed the cache at Independencia we spent an hour and a half resting and talking about life. One hour later we received news that a woman collapsed at the summit of Aconcagua. The same group of individuals that had installed the rescue cache at La Canaleta helped the woman by using a litter and oxygen that they had put in the cache just one hour before. We had already started descending when we heard the call for help. We waited at Camp Berlin (about 19,000ft) for three hours to help them with the descent of the woman in the litter. By the time they arrived it was dark and ten of us (me being the only woman) took turns carrying the sled. It was a crazy time, and I kept focusing on the woman's eyes, to make sure she didn't close them. She was French and didn't speak any Spanish and very little English. She was scared and I tried to soothe her fears. When we got to Nido she was put on oxygen and then they descended her to Plaza de Mulas in a litter where she was evacuated the following day in a helicopter.My goal was to save one person's life with the rescue equipment and this occurred just one hour after they were installed.
The next day a woman fell while descending and broke her leg. Again the litter was used as well as a trauma kit for stabilizing the break. The first aid kits that were stored at Nido de Condores were never stored, they were used every day, one incident after another.
I cannot explain life, or the events that occur, or why, when Fede was struggling for his life this equipment wasn't there, but it is there now, it is there now.
After this experience, and being there, and seeing the summit, I decided I needed to summit, to see what happened.
On January 23 at 12:00p.m. I summited Aconcagua. It was a struggle, I felt nauseas, but I understood the efforts of so many individuals who tried to save Fede.
Aconcagua is a community of people that share a love for the mountains, they take care of each other. Unfortunately they don't have the support of a government which should provide more resources.
So, on January 25 I began my return to the entrance to Aconcagua Provincial park. I decided I wanted to walk, even though I was offered a ride in the helicopter. It was difficult to leave, this community that works together and saw me as a hero. I am not a hero, but I did love Fede and I do also, love the mountains. I have learned more about the accident, and it continues to break my heart, but life must continue, it must.
To understand death is to understand life.
There is still a lot of work to do but something is moving.
Please help support our cause to improve rescue efforts by sharing your thoughts and ideas in the forum or donating to our funds for rescue and training efforts.
Please contact amber@elfede.org for more information or questions on how to donate.
Aconcagua
Aconcagua, at 22,841 ft (6962 meters) is the highest mountain outside of the Himalyas and one of the seven summits. Aconcagua Provincial Park, located in the province of Mendoza, Argentina is visited by thousands of tourists every year. There is no limit as to the number of people that can climb the mountain in the climbing season. Climbers are required to purchase a climbing permit of $500 U.S. dollars (during the high season). Information regarding the use of this money is unknown at this time.
There is an official Search and Rescue Team for the park (La Patrulla de Rescate), operated by the Mendoza police department, which consists of about ten paid individuals; all others are volunteers. The Search and Rescue Team works on a rotating schedule. Guides, guide associations, park rangers and the SAR all agree that improvements are needed, especially after the tragedy in January which was the largest rescue to date in the history of the mountain.
At present, we (family, friends, guides, guide companies, and medical organizations, both in Argentina and in the U.S.) are trying to create rescue and medical protocols to present to Aconcagua Park as well as organize training seminars and provide search and rescue equipment to this mountain.
On January 19, 2010 three rescue caches were installed on the mountain. Please refer to the About page “Aconcagua Rescue Caches 2010″ as well as the equipment page for more information on the caches.
The next goal for the foundation is the implementation of a working and effective protocol for the mountain and a medical and search and rescue course for all of the involved parties for the 2010-11 season.