While at the airport waiting for my flight to Lukla I ran into Willie Benegas. We met up in Namche Bazaar (the second day of the trek) and we talked about the differences between Aconcagua and Mt. Everest. Willie told me that the rescue system on Everest functions effectively for two main reasons. First, the government is not involved. Yes, the government takes the permit money and does whatever it wants with it, similar to what occurs on Aconcagua. But, the government is not physically present, there is no park service, or an official search and rescue team, and there aren’t any policies and regulations in effect for rescues. The main difference is that the companies on Everest work together to make sure that in the case of an emergency they will work together. The 15 companies that work on the mountain (the same number as that on Aconcagua) meet at the beginning of the season and exchange different radio frequencies so that all of them know each others frequencies in the case of an emergency. In addition, each company donates necessary rescue and medical equipment needed above base camp. And therein a system works, it is simple, but it works. For the past two years Everest has had zero fatalities. So, what to do with Aconcagua. The government, inevitably, has a strong presence in the workings on the mountain. Yet, I do believe that the guide companies, the park service, and the SAR can organize a system just as simple.

April 3

I have spent the day in Kathmandu and it is lovely to be in a true mountain town. The narrow streets are covered in everything to prepare climbers and trekkers who are about to embark on their journey to the highest peak in the world. Yet, all dreams must be grounded in reality and my hope is that climbers and trekkers are aware of the realities that come with altitude,and therein will prepare themselves accordingly.
I leave tomorrow to trek to Everest base camp in order to observe the rescue efforts on this mountain. It will take eight days for me to arrive at base camp. Along the way, while of course enjoying being surrounded by the Himalayas, I hope to interview Sherpas, guides and other organizations involved in the efforts to make the highest mountain in the world equipped with a rescue system. As of now, there is not an official rescue system, or rescue equipment stored in caches above base camp.
I am also doing this to raise awareness for the need for such systems on all 7 summits. I encourage anyone to please leave comments or suggestions for these efforts here or on Facebook.

April 2nd, 2011

How do other mountains and their rescue systems function in the rest of the world?
The end of the season on Aconcagua is nearing its end and even though the rescue caches have been very successful in assisting individuals who in life-threatening circumstances on the mountain, and therein preventing deaths, there is still a lot to be done for the mountain to reach an adequate rescue system. Most importantly at present is that of an emergency rescue protocol.
There are seven commercial summits in the world and therefore I believe that those seven summits should have effective rescue systems. So, why not start with the highest one.

Two hours ago, I arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. I am planning on trekking to Everest base camp in order to see how the rescue system on the highest mountain in the world functions. I plan on discussing this system with the people who work on the mountain, talking with the Himalayan Rescue Association based in Kathmandu as well as talking to Luanne Freer, founder of the Everest base camp clinic. Our hope is to possibly collaborate on our efforts to make commercial mountains safer.